ENGINEER PA-21 Universal Connector Crimping Pliers 175mm. Made in Japan. Precision Crimping Tool for Open Barrel Connectors, Long Barrel Wing Type (AWG #26 - #18 wires)

If you are a Hobbyist, buy these. Skip the cheaper ones you can find. These were so good, that I ended up buying a size up, and an extra pair so I always have one in reach. These are a must have whenever I work on my 3d printers, Electronics etc. Pros - High quality and durable - Versatile and compatible with various connector types (JST, Molex, etc) - Precise and consistent crimping results - Comfortable handle / Feel Good to Use - Easy to use - High level of control Cons: - Expensive compared to others - You might need some practice before you master them (due to them being completely manual) - Doesn't work with barrel connectors (IE Spade, etc) that you commonly find at local hardware stores Additional Details: 2 versions of these pliers exist, Taiwan and Japanese made. I've had both in my hands but of different sizes. The Japanese ones are subjectively better, but I wouldn't return the Taiwanese ones. The only major difference is that the Japanese ones have the crimped connectors slide out easier. There are some minor visual differences as well. I mostly view these as a hobbyist tool, if I were using these everyday 9 to 5, I think I might get something else. They are very much a "do it once, do it right, take some more time to do it" type of tool instead of churning out millions of connectors. Though I'm unaware of anything better, these are just so dang good.

I used to think crimping was a waste of time and money, especially since companies like Molex charge $Texas for "proper" crimpers. As a result I would normally solder terminals onto the ends of my wires, and sort of bend what was left with some needle-nose pliers to make it fit into the connector body. Then I did a couple projects where I spec'd PicoBlade connectors. These things are pretty diabolical and soldering them basically rendered them useless because they are so small, and the solder basically wicked everywhere you don't want it. Finally desperate enough, I decided to try the PA-09. It's well-built. Solid, no play in the joint, and does not shift or deform at all while you are doing the crimp. The grip is also solid. I would probably not want to do 100+ crimps in one sitting with this thing, but I can't imagine wanting to do that with any crimper. The docs are brief but effective. You want the sides of the connector to be parallel when you place it into the tool. If it's not, you picked the wrong size, and you will get bad results. I think I managed to destroy one PicoBlade terminal and after that I was producing perfectly serviceable crimps. I've gone on to crimp other terminals as well and it's unlikely I will go back to soldering them. One thing I would mention, and feel silly for not realizing at first. Normally you have to make two crimps to put a terminal on the end of a wire. One for the actual conductor, and another which crimps into the insulation as kind of a strain relief. I made the mistake of trying to use a larger size for the insulation crimp. They are the same size. It makes sense when you think about it, but of course I did not think about it.

These are very nice, precise crimpers. The pair I received are made in Japan. They may seem expensive, but you get what you pay for. I just repaired a Victron ve.direct cable and the crimps on the terminals are perfect. Now I can confidently make ve.direct cables to exact size instead of having a coil of extra wire to try and make tidy.

These work exceptionally well for those annoying molex connectors. Would highly recommend.

Let me start by saying that these Engineer PA-20 Universal Wire Crimps are the best you can find on Amazon for under $50. They beat the generic blue handled crimp tools and many of the ratcheting crimp tools. It took me some time to decide on the PA-20's but I wish I would have purchased them first over the other two tools that I tried out. The Engineer PA-20 is well built and seems like it will last a long time if used properly for its intended purpose. I like that the crimp tool has a plier-like nose so you can manually shape terminals to hold wires in before accomplishing the crimp. The 4 size options will cover most of my needs working with smaller automotive connectors. The die is shaped and sized accurately so that the terminals don't bend or get crushed when performing the crimp. I tend to use the size up for my initial crimp and then the exact size to finish off the crimp and I always achieve great results with that method. Overall, the Engineer PA-20 is a great precise tool that I will get lots of good use out of. I will be looking to their other selection of tools for future projects. Previously, I had purchased and used this linked ratcheting crimp tool. It made a complete mess of the terminals I was working with even though it was rated for 22 gauge wire and terminals. Also, the ratchet didn't release until you completed a full crimp which often times resulted in too much force being applied. All in all I found I prefer the manual crimp tool over the ratcheting crimp tools since you can control force and accuracy. IWISS SN-48B Non-Insulated Tabs and Receptacles Crimping Plier AWG26-16 0.14-1.5mm²

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Crimpadora en dos pasos. De calidad excelente, se ajusta a la mano perfectamente.

This is exactly the tool I have been after. I haven't been able to find a tool to crimp a specific type of terminal I use regularly but this has worked a treat. Basic easy to use tool allowing for perfect crimps.

Best tool I ever had for JST crimping, including ZH size, which is tiny. Recommended.

j'avais l'habitude d'utiliser une Plato SN-02B qui sertissait du molex proprement, en une seule passe (mors d'isolant et de conducteur). Mais le sertissage des broches Dupont nécessitait un doigté et un réglage de profondeur très délicat et minutieux, sous peine d'écraser l'intégralité du connecteur Avec cette pince, de bien meilleure qualité que ma SN-02B Chinoise, il faut effectuer deux sertissage distincts, l'un pour le conducteur, l'autre pour l'isolant. Mais la lame est assez étroite pour ne pas risquer d'abimer le fût du connecteur Dupont femelle (idem pour les VH et NH). Et accessoirement, la pince donne d'excellents résultats sur les petits modèles de cosses faston. La ferule du connecteur s'enroule proprement, comme elle le ferait avec une véritable pince Molex (laquelle coûte 4 à 6 fois plus cher). Mors en acier forgé et non estampés en série, poignée en élastomère, agréable à la main (les photos sur le Web laissent penser à un plastique de mauvaise qualité, ce n'est absolument pas le cas) ressort de rappel (en compression) un peu mou qui demande à être "étiré" avant la première utilisation. Si cette pince est utilisée avec soin pour ne sertir QUE des connecteurs électroniques genre molex ou dupont, sa durée de vie sera... largement supérieure à celle de son utilisateur.