BIGTREETECH S2DW V1.0 Acceleration Sensor Module Compatible Klipper/BIGTREETECH Pi/Raspberry-Pi, High Resolution Tilt-Sensing Accelerometer

Easy to use and works with Klipper’s provided lis2dw definition if you get the V1.0, and does its job well as long as you put in the correct x,y,z directions for how you mount it on the machine. Allows my original Ender 3 to print with great quality at speeds that I would’ve thought weren’t even imaginable when I got the machine in 2018.

This is such an improvement over the others for a number of reasons 1. USB-C which means you can attach it to your Pi directly without having to solder and using ribbon cables 2. Setup was very straightforward 3. The larger mounting hole allows you to mount it on the extruder where the nozzle sits so you get a very accurate reading vs a mount on the side of the hot end that's not as accurate. I printed a mount for the Y axis of my Cartesian/bed slinger and left it attached to the bed I screwed in my sensor and ran the tests. I highly recommend either BTT version of this sensor

I used this accelerometer for the first time today to tune my Klipper based printer. Very happy with my choice. The USB interface made the testing super simple. The flash process worked as described on the BTT website. Klippers auto input shaping feature worked perfectly with this unit. The only thing that could be clearer I would say is the axis mapping. A good instruction on that mapping with pictures and examples (CoreXY vs Bed Slinger etc.) with some different mount points would help. Still I figured it out and it's a great little board.

Primary reason for switching to Klipper from Marlin was to be able to use an accelerometer to configure the parameters for input shaping. It was a steep learning curve moving from Marlin to Klipper, but doubt I would ever go back, due to the huge conveniences found in Klipper. One thing that wasted more than a few hours, was the "error" reported by Klipper when you start the input shaping calibration. The first time you start the calibration process, an error is generated. Apparently, this is a known glitch, simply start the calibration process again, it works. I like the ease of using a USB C connection after reading hundreds of horror stories regarding mis-wiring accelerometers and breaking things. After installing the software and run a query on the device, if it isn't found, be sure to swap the USB C cable to a different brand or vendor, they apparently are not all created equal. Some cables work, some don't.

The BigTreeTech S2DW V1.0 was extremely easy to flash, install and use to setup the Input Shaping on my 3D printers. I had never done this before and was a bit hesitant to try it. I used the BigTreeTech Git Hub to download the installation procedures following them and watching a couple of Youtube videos and it went smoothly. Now both my printers print quality and speed have improved. Well worth the effort and expense.

Big headache saver! Being able to use input shaping in Klipper is the best quality upgrade you can get for an older 3d printer.

It works, takes a bit to setup but only takes about an hour or less if you know what your doing. Also improves print quality if you want to print fast. Kinda wished it came with a cable though.

Great product, plenty of tutorials to get it set up. I recommend the manufacturers manual online, as well

Helped improve the quality of my prints. Used it once to calibrate the printer and havent need to touch it since.

Excellent helped a lot with getting better print in my BLV Cube!!

Worked as advertised. The usb feature and linking with klipper is extremely convenient

This just works perfectly. This is less expensive and as I understand it, more accurate than the asdl version. I purchased two and they both set up easy and work great.

one star reduced for the misleading label. I got the S2DW V1.0 and I read the end of the title thinking it's the v2.0 adxl. wasted hours of my day! using a USB one removed a lot of fuss and interference/wiring worries from the test which is honestly more than worth it IMO. (PS this was done on a very old MK3s which I think explains the bad shape/results, the printer is just mechanically awful and not rigid at all)