West System 655-K Plastic Boat Repair Kit

Used for two massive cracks in my scupper drains. Seems to have been the only thing I’ve ever used on this kayak that actually sticks long term. Only had one ride so far but it is already holding better than everything else I tried so win for me so far! Watertight seal currently.

Used this to fix a hairline crack in my kayak. Never used epoxy before but the instructions were very simple and straight forward and the end result was amazing! A year later and the repaired spot is still holding strong!

I had a 5" - 6" crack in the hull of my hurricane trylon kayak. I used this product in conjunction with some patches (recommended by hurricane) which are heated and then applied to form a tight bond to the the shape of the damaged hull area. Unfortunately I was unable to heat the patch warm enough to get a good water tight seal(my bad because all I had was a hairdyer to heat it. I knew after trying to heat it for a little while that it was questionable, but decided to try it anyway). The next day after confirming that it was not a good seal I then had to decide whether to remove the patch and start over or try to seal /fill in the areas which did not bond tight enough to the hull. I chose the latter and ordered the Gflex. It arrived promptly and as soon as I received it I then coated the inside hull of the kayak with GFlex to cover the cracked area and filled the two drill holes I had made (which are necessary at each end of the crack to prevent further cracking). I applied it about two extra inches past the crack and drill holes.. After that, on the outside of the kayak I applied the Gflex around the outer edges of the patch, paying particular attention to the areas where I had been unable to get a tight fit and let it set for 24 hours. Today I spent 4 hours on a river with lots of shoals and rocks so the patch job was tested pretty well and everything remained water tight inside. It is possible that if I had applied the patch correctly the first time with the proper amount of heat that this step/product might not have been necessary. However I do think it reinforced everything. I found the GFlex easy to use and appreciate it coming in a kit form. The little cards and application stick that you use to mix the two epoxys make it very easy to apply. Hope I don't have to use it again, but if I do, I am confident that it will do the job.

I used this to repair an abraded area with a small crack in the rear keel of an Old Town Saranac canoe made of molded polyethylene. This material is difficult to repair because most adhesives will not stick to it. This West System kit is one of the few that claims to work. I followed the instructions carefully including that polyethylene should be flame treated using a propane torch. Even with moving the torch as instructed, the material quickly softened and the crack quickly opened to about an inch wide. I used tape on the exterior, while the plastic was still soft, to pull the gap back together, then used fiberglass matt and the epoxy on the inside of the keel. After a few minutes, this was strong enough that I could remove the tape and apply epoxy and fiberglass matt to the exterior. I used two layers of matt on the outside and one layer on the inside. The repair looks solid. I need to sand and paint to match the canoe, if I want it to look better. The stuff is messy to work with, but it saved the $700 for a new canoe. Time will tell how it holds up. We use the canoe on a tidal area with oyster beds and at mid tide sometimes scrape the bottom on the oysters, so that will be a real test.

G/Flex 655 Epoxy evidently does exactly what they claim. I have been using it on everything for the past six months. I love the stuff, it stuck to everything I have tried! So I finally decided to give it the "acid test." IPE wood. An oily, super hard Brazilian hardwood that is notoriously difficult to glue. I cut two fresh faces on a pair of 18" lengths of Ipe making a 1.5" x 2" gluing area. Glued them together and let them sit for six days while I went on a short trip. When I finally went out to the garage to stress test the joint I was a bit apprehensive as - using another epoxy- I had several joints fail with another "super" epoxy I tried on Ipe. That other epoxy was supposedly formulated specifically and exclusively for oily hardwoods.......the best of the best it was supposed to be. So I went into the garage, supported the G/Flex-655-glued-up board on two bricks ---- one at either end --- and pushed. It promptly failed. HOWEVER when I examined the broken joint I was delighted to see a nice layer of freshly split-off Ipe covering the entire glue area. No exposed G/Flex at all! Which means that the G/Flex did indeed "adhere tenaciously" to the Ipe ..... just as they say on their website ......... so it was the wood that failed, not the G/Flex. It is expensive but I have glued every project in sight for the past six months and I still have 1/4 of each tube left of the pair of 8oz resin/hardener tubes. I figure unless I have a particularly large project a pair of 8 oz tubes should last me six to twelve months. The 655 is a thicker -- cold honey consistency-- than the 650. So, the assurance that my projects will indeed "stick together" makes it is well worth the expense. I HIGHLY recommend it.

If you have a holes or cracks in your kayak this stuff is the best. I've tried a LOT of other epoxies that just weren't flexible enough for hdpe plastics that kayaks are made from that would crack. Quality product that performs exactly like it says it does. I mean, it is a little expensive but you definitely get what you pay for. I had 1 finger sized hole and 4 smaller screw holes and a 2" long crack and it permanently fixed them all and still have 99% of the gflex left.

Product worked as described and came with all supplies necessary to apply.

This epoxy is very good. As advertised, it is very strong once cured, but still allows for some flex. As for how much flex, it is difficult to qualify. However, if you allow for a thinned puddle of it to cure on a piece of paper, and then do the same with standard epoxy, the standard epoxy will be more brittle when the cured puddle is folded and contorted. The epoxy does emit some odor after mixing, giving me the impression that it is powerful, industrial-grade stuff. The odor is not so strong that you need ventilation or could not use it in doors, however. The viscosity of the epoxy is quite high, and it flows a little less than typical honey. I appreciated the fact that equal volumes, as opposed to masses, of the two parts could be dispensed and then mixed, as both parts are essentially the same density. The packaging, appearance, performance, et cetera, are all professional, in my opinion.