Yung SD300 300W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier Module No Boost

It sounds fine and works well. I'm not an audiophile but I am a bit of a home theater buff. For movies my subs now rock. I have a pair of subs in the front of my home theater system, I routed the rca cable through this and to the other sub. I used a base test app on my phone and sat in the middle of them, they where about 12 feet apart and used the gain settings to try and balance the volume between them. Not to technical..lol I then used the home theater system to balance the audio for my seating position. (its automated). Anyway after watching a few movies I can now feel the rumble and the deep bass hits from the movies. My wife says its too loud but what does she know.... So for as far as I'm concerned it really does enhance my home theater movie viewing experience. It was really easy to install electrically, but i had to add a little wood to the back of my polk audio psw505 since the plate it mounts on is just a little smaller then the original polk amp. It also sounds pretty good when I crank up the tunes.

I got this and it didn't work. I plugged it in and no power indicator lit up. Because the manual is little more than a picture of the item, it was hard to figure out if this was normal. I thought I would look at the circuit boards before I tried to return it. One of the power cables was NOT soldered in. There was also a power resistor that had a lead leaning against a large diode lead. I suppose that I'm glad the power wasn't applied before I found that... Once I straightened those two things out, it worked as expected. I don't have this in the most challenging application, so this is good and not surprising. 1 star for quality. 4 stars for everything else. I'm not sure what I expect for the price. I can't understand how they make it for the price.

I have this thing driving a 12" DIY home theater sub, it sounds excellent, as good as any Class AB amp. Driven hard, it hardly gets warm.

This panel arrived promptly but not working correctly. It had a constant ticking regardless of input (even with out one). Research indicated that it was a bad relay, capacitor, or both. It happens with electronics, but I was unable to contact the vendor to get a replacement, so I was forced to return it. With no support from the vendor, if the issue were to repeat, I'm unwilling to try this again even though I already modified my enclosure for this panel. I'd keep looking.

We're using the subwoofer output from a 5.1 home theater receiver, so I can't say whether the built in lowpass filters work. But the class D amp and switching power supply work well, no audible hum, noise, or distortion. High quality connectors. Like most of these Chinese products, there's no real documentation. What does the phase control really do? There's no way to find out. Also, the output is from a pair of lugs on the end of a two foot wire. They look like they'd fit the lugs on the back of a speaker, but if they don't reach you'll probably have to do something that voids the warranty to extend the wire.

I use this plate amp for a sub in my bedroom setup. Mounted it in a Qbomb 10"ported box with a Rockford Fosgate DVC 2 ohm sub wired in series to run at 4 ohms. Hits hard and have had no problems.

User DutchTreat tried to answer another user's question of what the "Phase" control is for, and "sort of" got it right, but for the wrong reason. "Phase" is referring to whether all woofers are "in phase," between all dpeakers in your system, meaning all are moving forward/out on the same music signal, and back/in on the same signal....it has nothing to do with the crossover frequency ....it has to do with the user not having any idea, unless they built the sub and wired it themselves, which wire feeding the sub is connected to which terminal on the internal speaker, + and - ...if the other speakers in your system are wired opposite of your sub, then the bass being produced by the sub will be "out of phase" with your other speaker's woofers, and the bass frequencies from each speaker will cancel each other out, like adding +1 and -1 = 0.....so you experiment and listen as you flip the "Phase" switch, if it sounds like more bass in one position, then all speakers are now "In Phase." You might need to have someone sit in a central listening position while somebody else flips the Phase switch.

A lot of 60 hz hum need to unplug when not using