Otter Wax Heat-Activated Fabric Dressing | 1 Pint | Meltable Waterproofing Treatment for Waxed Canvas Jackets & Rain Gear | All-Natural & PFAS-Free Beeswax Protectant | Made in Portland USA

I used Barbour wax initially and then tried this Otter..I like both and in my opinion they differ. I did a light weight 100% cotton field jacket with the Barbour and it turned out great, very supple and soft unlike a Filson tin clothe or similar but I probably could have coated it again to get more of a stiff finish..I did another 511 tactical heavy shirt with the Otter and the diff is it goes on thicker brushed and has a lot more of a thick coating before the heat process to impreganate it into the clothe..Another great way to apply it is heat the wax by sticking the heat gun on high right into the top of the can and when it melts a little stick the brush in and paint it on the garment spreading it as you use the heat gun and brush as you wipe off the excess before it dries which is much quicker than putting it all on the stove to melt it completely before applying..When I was finished both gave me excellent results with the Otter somewhat stiffer similar to a Filson finish..I find using a old iron to get this Into the clothe is best on easy to iron clothe then clean up any other spots with a heat gun or hair dryer just don't over do it or it will travel right thorough the clothe to the surface its on..This is a excellent procedure for both..My results were great and it was my first time. I think I'll stick with the Otter for price as you get twice the amount for the same cost and you will use the same per garment. Although the Barbour is easier and melts quicker and is more supple as you will have a hard time to know if the garment is Borboured by its looks and feel as it is soft but waterproof not stiff like Otter..Both are good though and if you don't screw it up you should be satisfied with either, but understand there is a reason you pay the $400 + cost for waxed jackets because they are a choir to do and you are paying for it so save and spend a coupler hours to save a couple hundred and do it to whatever you need to do it to..Up date; the garment I did is super water proof but it really smells and it smells everything else up in the storage. When I hang it in the garage, as soon as I enter it I can smell it a mile away..From now on only hunting clothes..

After melting 3 cans and trying to paint and scrape and rub this wax on to a canvas tent roof, I started to question my life choices that brought be to this point in my life. Then I noticed a missed spot and took a chunk of hard wax from an empty can and rubbed it on. It worked great. That’s when I came up with the idea to just make my own “rub” bars from the cans. I heated up 4 cans and poured them in to 3oz soap molds making 24 bars. On a 55°f day in direct sun the fabric is hot enough to melt and set the wax, just with less mess and I’m also able to more precisely apply it to needed locations. I like this wax and it definitely waterproofed the fabric. The smell is also pleasant and not harsh whatsoever. However you choose to apply this wax, I highly recommend it!

Works great but really hard to use. I needed to waterproof a canvas watercolor field bag. I found the perfect one on Amazon for around $40. The trouble is, the cavas was not water resistant at all. The quality and price of the bag were too good to pass on, so I decided to try and waterproof it with this product. It takes forever for the wax to melt…and, then, it goes from milky to clear before you should even think about applying it. I used a stiff 1-1/2” wide paint brush with stiff bristles. I could get, maybe, a 3” section of the bag sort of done and then had to put the brush back in the can to remelt everything and get the wax compound hot enough to go clear again. In any event, the bag tool four hours and looked awful, with missed sections and chunks of unabsorbed wax everywhere. So, the next day, I started rubbing tiny sections with my thumb and fingers. That actually works. As friction heats up the wax, the canvas absorbs it better and you start getting a uniform look….But life isn’t long enough to complete a backpack by that method, so I got out my heat gun. 90 minutes and I had a gorgeous, water proof, waxed canvas watercolor field bag. It’s been a week, now, and I would do this again…..but do yourself a favor and buy or borrow a good heat gun. Use it on low, to where it melts any bits of wax and the canvas absorbs them instantly. Fill in with the wax you scraped off with your wood tool (I used popsicle stick) when first applying the melted wax. Just kind stick it where you want it and melt it into the canvas with the heat gun.

If you’re looking to wax a jacket, you need a LOT of wax. This should do the trick when applied generously. Use the double heating method with a pot of water because wax is flammable. If you paint it on, you need to go back over with a spreader AND a heat gun. The look turns out very good. I used two of the large otterwax bars before moving to this can of wax and had a way better outcome with less effort and saved half the time it took to do it with the bars. Save the time and money and start here. Some people complain about the smell, it does have a smell but it’s not bad or as strong as some are saying.

I did a bit of research before waxing my first jacket and I hope my experience helps: first I melted the wax while the jacket was being warmed in the dryer for a few minutes. Then I applied with a sponge brush, and after applying a generous amount (it didn’t seem to matter whether the wax started drying at this point), I heated the wax and worked the corners with my ski wax iron which worked amazing (it’s almost like waxing skis!). The final touch is to put the zipped up jacket inside out in the dryer to melt the last bit of wax in the crease. It came out well and I’m happy with it. It took about two and half hours and I used 3 quarters of the 1-pint jar.

You have enough time with a brush to get the wax on to the garment, and a little spreading, but it will harden fairly quickly. A few pointers, warm the garment (about 10 minutes in the dryer), use a heat gun (this will be better than a hairdryer), keep the area you are working on, warm, wiht the heat gun. Keep the brush warm with the heat gun. Spread and spread and spread. Use your hands (they'll wash right up with Dawn dish detergent), spread and spread. Use the heat gun and get as much of the wax in the garment as possible. Stand back and say - "WOW, that looks like crap!" Now, put it in the dryer for about 30 minutes. (be sure to dry a load or two of towels after this). Now - stand back and admire your work. It will come out great. Just spreading the wax on the garment is going to take a good 90 minutes, probably more. Trying to get the wax to soak in with a heat gun will take forever. Drying it in the dryer for 30 minutes - that takes about 30 minutes and really spreads the wax out nice and even. The garment I did (a surplus OD Green field jacket) took the wax pretty well, but it was still too thick. I dried it for about 15 minutes, then turned everything inside out, did another 15 minutes and it looks great.

Yeah it's fine. Nothing special. Very small can. It's just Beeswax and parafinwax way cheaper to buy those two and mix yourself. These guys are way overcharging. If you buy this can make sure you buy more than what you think you need. So far my 3xl Legendary whitetail Journeyman jacket has taken a full 1.5 pint and counting. My coating is full saturatation with excess being wiped and moved to a less coated area.. The coating does work. You can pour water and let it sit and it won't sleep through if laid flat on a table so if your are standing the water will absolutely bead off and fall into the ground. No smell. Little stiff. Dark matte color. Durability is that of wax, it's gonna come off eventually. Go mix your own 50%beeswax/50% parafinwax

Great for waxing roughout leather boots! Easy to use.