Sodium Hypochlorite Generator Multi-Purpose Cleaning Supplies Generator, Chlorine Testing Strips Included

This is a device I needed, just did not know it. After buying HOCL solution and liking it, pretty pricey, decided to give this device a try. Well, I use it so often now in many applications!. First, skin treatment. Back acne - check. Psoriasis flare - check. Not irritating at all, but calming somehow. And of course sanitizing house, use as floor mopping solution with my Tineko. I have no idea what the percentage of HOCL I am making, not a specialist, but it works great for all my needs. Tried it at least 15 times already. Method - 500 ml bottle water, 1 scoop coming with the generator of salt and vinegar, each. Stir to completely dissolve salt. Plug in the power bank (scared of plugging in the wall outlet by some rumors) for 15 minutes. Rinse the generator. Genius.

What a great find, made HOCl in 30 minutes, easy, cheap, and considering I was ordering it premade and spending a lot of money, it is worth it. I put refrigerator filtered water and the salt in, used a clean mason jar, and it worked easily.

I use this regularly to make hypochlorous acid (HOCL)! Here's my long guide, make sure to read throughly. STEPS: >Fill my 18 fl oz cup of tap water (or distilled water) to the top, add roughly 2-3 teaspoons of *non-iodized* salt. >Add enough vinegar that the ph reads roughly on the lower end of 5 (usually about 1-2 tablespoons I believe but I add the vinegar with the piper, stir and test until it reaches that ph). Don't go under 3-4 for ph, or it has the potential to make chlorine gas when you add the generator. If you reach too low of a ph, dump some out and add in more tap water. With adding vinegar, I've found jumping from a 6 to a 5 ph is easy and doesn't require much, but going from a 5 to a 4 is much harder (not that you want a 4 ph). Vinegar by itself has a ph of 2-3, so going that low for your solution would mean that it’s mostly just vinegar with some water lol. The generator usually causes the ph of the final HOCL to rise by 1 or 2. HOCL is most stable around a ph of 5-6.5. >Plug the generator into my external battery then pop it into the water for 10-25 min. You'll see tiny bubbles as it starts working. I check in often to see what the ppm is, and when it reaches around 200ppm, I remove the generator. If it's struggling to reach your desired ppm, add in another teaspoon of salt and/or leave it running for longer. MAKE SURE: >*****DO NOT use vinegar to try and adjust the ph at any point AFTER you put the generator into the water. That is how you make chlorine gas. Only add vinegar BEFORE putting the generator into the water. There is NO safe way to lower the ph after making the HOCL***** >It's safest to plug this into an external battery rather than an outlet, as you are putting this thing directly into water. >Rinse after use or the hypochlorous acid will corrode the generator. >Always test the chlorine level, especially if using on skin. This kit comes with only a couple chlorine test strips and a VERY unreliable low res graphic to see what level it is at. I recommend buying your own chlorine strips, preferably one that reads up to at least 300-500 ppm, depending on what you want to use the hypochlorous acid for. If you get one that reads up to 200ppm, you can't tell if the chlorine level is above 200ppm and by how much. You can only tell if it is under 200ppm. >If your final solution has a ph of above 7.5, you've made bleach, not HOCL. Start over, but this time with a lower ph of your starting water + vinegar + salt solution. For SKIN: the ppm should be between 50-200 (keep on the lower end for sensitive skin) with a ph around 5-6.5. For CLEANING: it can be anywhere from 100-500 (500 is for heavy-duty sanitizing). Troubleshooting: >Final chlorine ppm too high? Add some tap/distilled water to dilute it. >Final HOCL ph too high? There is no safe way to lower the ph after making it, so you'll just need to start over and make a new batch, and make sure the starting ph is at 5. >Can’t reach your ideal chlorine ppm? Add more salt and/or run the generator for longer. TIPS: -I've heard people running into issues using citric acid as an acidifier, so I think it's safer to just stick with vinegar. As long as you don't add too much (which shouldn’t happen to reach an initial ph of 5), the final HOCL doesn't smell like vinegar. -Use a dark bottle to store because sunlight and heat makes the HOCL break down. It only stays potent for up to 1 month max, but you can test with the chlorine strips and ph to check. -Make HOCL in a well ventilated place. Last but not least: -If your HOCL mixture starts creating a yellow-green vapor, SOS!! as that is CHLORINE GAS!! You likely didn’t listen to my guide and either started with a ph that was wayyy too low (aka a solution that is mostly vinegar with some water), or added vinegar some point after you put the generator in. Get away from it and look up CDC’s recommendation for chemical emergency>chlorine. (All of this is just based on my own experience and research, so take this info with a grain of salt. Do your own research before attempting!)

Overall, I’m happy with this PWPAM Sodium Hypochlorite Generator. It is rather flimsy and seems like it won't last long, but for the price I really can’t complain. It could be better if the cord were longer and it worked quicker. It plugs into a block used for charging cell phones. Once I spent some time experimenting, I think I found a recipe that works best for consistent results: one bottle of water, one teaspoon of salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of vinegar. It's fairly easy to use, and after figuring out the right mix, it produces a good solution without much hassle. It’s convenient to make what I need at home instead of constantly buying store cleaning products. The end result solution is what stands out the most. You can clean just about any and everything with it. No rinsing required. I use it in dish washing, washing clothes and even in the shower. I even use it as a face wash. It Feels so refreshing. I moisten wet wipes for hand cleaning and wiping small messes when traveling. If your a clean freak like me and on a budget, this is a must. Will but again.

This product is pretty solid. The weak point is that it would have been nicer to have more detailed instructions, like a table indicating the process and the resultant strengths, but you can do that work yourself with some test strips and a little google. Get yourself chlorine test strips so you know how strong your final solution is. Following the given instructions gives you about 200ppm, which is enough to make a good bleach disinfectant spray for cleaning hard surfaces. Give it more salt and a longer processing time, you should be able to get a solution up to 1% or so, which approaches strong enough to use as bleach. You'll probably need to use 2-3x as much to get the same result as commercial store-bought bleach, but that's not a problem because this amount costs you less than a penny. Although the cost savings could be huge if you're a person who uses a lot of bleach, the biggest plus here is that the bleach solution you get through this electrolysis process will be much safer than anything you buy at the store. Commercial bleach is stabilized with caustic lye, tends to be pretty nasty stuff. Make no mistake, this is chlorine, but the product you make with this process will not be considered "hazardous", unlike store-bought bleach. Also unlike the harsher chemicals in commercial bleach products, these are completely safe for the environment. What you make will decay back into ordinary salt water within a couple weeks. As a side benefit, you can also use this device to make Hypochlorous Acid, with the small addition of an acid to the process. Something like citric acid is best, but you can also get a decent result with acetic (vinegar) acid. This is useful as both a disinfectant and an antiseptic for topical purposes; and also is something that could be sprayed on fresh produce before rinsing to harmlessly disinfect any surface microbes. All in all, this device, while inexpensive, offers very high value for the price, as long as the person using it is willing to do a little bit of research to ensure they're using it safely and effectively.

I've had this product for a year and a half. I purchased it because I have found Hypochlorous Acid to be great for my sensitive skin. Tower 28 makes it and it sells for $12 an ounce. Once I realized how useful it was, I purchased Briotech hypochlorous Acid which is about $1 an ounce. That's an affordable price, but the shelf life of hypochlorous acid is limited and I didn't use it up before it expired. When I had originally researched hypochlorous acid for skin I came across posts of people making it at home, so when I ran out of the Briotech I started searching for something to make my own with. The machines are usually $100 or more. I wasn't willing to commit to that, but I saw this product and purchased it to give it a try. This product is marketed for making sodium Hypochlorite (not the hypochlorous acid I use on my skin) which is what happens when you use it with salt and water. There are other reviews for users that added vinegar to the water to create the hypochlorous acid that is for skin. I knew this going into the purchase and knew it was marketed to make the hypochlorite that is the disinfectant and bleach product, not the skin formula of hypochlorous acid. So far I have NOT added the vinegar to make the hypochlorous acid. Mainly because I want to get more exact ph strips to make sure it is a safe ph for my sensitive skin. However, I HAVE used this many, many times to make the sodium hypochlorite disinfectant/bleach. I love that I don't have to buy and store gallon jugs of bleach anymore. Not only are they expensive and bulky, but can spill and bleach unintended items. I'm also health conscious and prefer to use gentle and safe products vs toxic ones that are bad for us and bad for the environment. With this product, I only need to keep salt in my cabinet to make huge amounts of laundry bleach. The instructions on this product are simple and clear. It comes with a measuring scoop and some testing strips as well as the little machine. Note: you can rip off just half off a strip and not use a whole one when testing, we always did that in my college chem classes to make the strips more affordable. When I decide to wash my white laundry, I fill a mason jar with 16 ounces of water and add at least 4 scoops of salt. I then let it run while I was my darks and color loads. So usually it runs for a few hours, sometimes overnight. It technically only needs less than an hour since the directions say you can get 1000 ppm in 8 oz in 20 minutes, but I want to get it as strong as possible for my laundry use. The instructions say it can reach 1500 ppm with this machine. Per Chlorox, bleach diluted to 1500 ppm sodium hypochlorite solution can be used "for general disinfection of many organisms (such as MRSA, E. coli, Staph, Salmonella + SARS-CoV-2, HIV-1, Rhinovirus, Rotavirus)" as well. I'd much rather use this product that buy chlorox which is much stronger and unhealthy to breathe in. I'm paying a few cents for the salt versus $5 a bottle of chlorox. I can make it anytime I need, as much as I need. You do need to supply your own salt, I use basic table salt or iodine free table salt, whichever I have handy. I wouldn't use a rock type salt, you want a normal table salt grind so it dissolves in the water. I don't know how long it will last, but I will repurchase without complaint if it stops working. You can tell it's working because the water will smell like bleach and it also turns the strip darker the stronger it is.

It broke after owning it l sd than 6 months and occasional use. Rinsed after each use.

It works, but seems to have no timer.

Works as intended has held up well. For the price you really can’t go wrong. Note you need your own block as it only comes with USB-USBC cord.

Better than buying bleach, best option on Amazon.

Worked as intended. Didn’t come with test strips though. Wish it came with the test strips

So far so good. Be sure to rinse well between uses or it will likely corrode. Note that any single-cell electrolysis of salt will produce bleach. You need to acidify (for example with vinegar) to get the pH down to the 3.5 to 5.5 range to maximise hypochlorous acid in the solution. Best to add the vinegar in advance, since if you add it after running the device you will create a lot of toxic chlorine gas all at once. By adding vinegar in advance, you get the same amount of chlorine gas but it is produced gradually so it's easier to vent or disperse. The recipe I'm using to generate hypochlorous acid suitable for a topical (skin surface) antiseptic is as follows: In a tall glass or jar add 200 mL of filtered water, 1/2 tsp of pickling salt (or any non-iodized salt), and 3/4 tsp of regular white vinegar (typically 5% acetic acid). Stir until the salt is completely dissolved. Use a 1A@5V adapter. Submerse the device and run it for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Be sure to rinse the device well after use. Then use the test strips and dilute with water if necessary to reduce strength. The acidification with vinegar is needed because, in single-cell electrolysis of aqueous NaCl, you get OH- ions also produced, and they make the resulting solution alkaline (giving hypochlorite "bleach"). If you wanted to generate hypochlorous acid directly, without addition of acid, you'd need to run dual-cell electrolysis, with a salt bridge between the two cells. Then one cell (cathode I *think*... been a while...) would contain your hypocholorous acid, the other would contain sodium hydroxide (lye) solution. You could tell which was which by a sniff test - the hypochlorous side would smell of chlorine. Or a pH test, the lye side would have the significantly higher pH. This device is only suitable for single-cell electrolysis. But it still gives usable hypochlorous acid if you acidify appropriately. It won't give you the same quality as commercial hypochlorous acid, which is (surely) produced using dual-cell electrolysis. Full 5/5 stars since they do advertise it as a sodium hypochlorite (i.e. bleach) generator, not a hypochlorous acid generator. Bonus that it *is* at least possible to get hypochlorous acid by using the additional acidification step!

These work fantastic and deliver as they state. I have 2 of them and make cleaning solution.