Stanbroil Fire Pit Gas Burner Spark Ignition Kit – Including Push Button Igniter Gas Shut-Off Valve with Key

Awesome product and delivery time

I retrofitted a firebowl tht was converted from propane. The burner was of course the cheap kind. So I bought this control along ith the stanbroil control and I could not be happier. The only thing I did not like was the ignition. I needed to bend it to be closer to one of the ports on the burner. Once I did that it works flawlessly.

5 stars all day! This is a mounted valve panel with a built-in ignition clicker. Not a regulating assembly. Know that going in! Yea, I can turn down the keyed valve and throttle my propane, but that’s just fine and what I expected. I bought this assembly to go along with the Stanbroil 6” x 60” fire pit tray/insert. I hard plumbed it underground to our tank that also feeds our outdoor kitchen. Zero problems whatsoever. Pretty sure the negative reviewers are just not familiar with common gas plumbing. In any event, this is a legit setup for the price. I will add though- the air mixer body does not come with your fire pit insert, nor does it come with the ignition panel. If you’re burning propane, you WILL need this. Don’t sweat it bro- $11… All things considered, I’m still wondering why it comes with a 4” - 90° return on the stainless panel. I cut that off with a skinny wheel and shaped it off with a flap disc so i could face mount it on my fiber cement siding. Associated pictures are for the beta run. Net effect… I’ve got a best friend that works in HVAC; he told me he couldn’t beat that number on a Napoleon unit. Go for it.

Excellent produit qui semble faire ce qu’on attend de lui

Overall, I found the unit well designed with some nice features to handle various install situations. I've uploaded some photos and two videos on the ignitor focusing on the box I built since I couldn't mount it to the actual fire bowl because the bowl is solid granite. A few topline thoughts: 1. The unit itself is well-designed. For example, the ignitor button unscrews from the front to make it easy to change the battery when needed. 2. You'll notice that the metal bracket holding the ignitor button and the valve on/off control is a right-angle piece of metal with holes on the face to mount it that way and the base if needed. In my situation, I just needed the face plate, so I cut off the base part using my Dremel so it wouldn't get in the way. That is why you don't see it in my uploaded photos. 3. One thing not obvious is that if you unscrew the round trim where the on/off key goes and undo one screw in the back, you can separate the valve from the faceplate. This is handy during installation as it makes it easier to mount the faceplate and separately ensure the gas lines to and from the valve are installed to the proper tightness. 4. Before laying your gas line to the ignitor, ensure you don't have to upsize your gas line from the meter to provide enough flow to the burner. Given the distance, I had to increase mine from 3/4" to 1", and then I just used a reducer to connect the line to the ignitor. The distance doesn't matter at that point, and if you have enough pressure to that point, you will be fine.