---
product_id: 33441330
title: "Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794"
brand: "beck/arnley"
price: "Rp1743924"
currency: IDR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 12
url: https://www.desertcart.id/products/33441330-beck-arnley-ignition-switch-201-1794
store_origin: ID
region: Indonesia
---

# 100% tested mechanical & electrical OE form, fit & function matched Corrosion-resistant nickel contacts Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794

**Brand:** beck/arnley
**Price:** Rp1743924
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Ignite confidence with every turn — the switch that means business.

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 by beck/arnley
- **How much does it cost?** Rp1743924 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.id](https://www.desertcart.id/products/33441330-beck-arnley-ignition-switch-201-1794)

## Best For

- beck/arnley enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted beck/arnley brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **IP54 Protection Rating:** Built to resist dust and water splashes, ensuring consistent operation in diverse environments.
- • **Sleek Machined Exterior:** Engineered with a refined finish that complements your vehicle’s high standards and your professional taste.
- • **Durability You Can Trust:** Crafted with premium corrosion-resistant nickel contacts to withstand the test of time and elements.
- • **Precision OE Compatibility:** Seamlessly integrates with your vehicle’s original wiring and ignition cylinder for flawless performance.
- • **Rigorous Quality Assurance:** Each switch undergoes 100% mechanical and electrical testing to guarantee reliability every time you start.

## Overview

The Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch 201-1794 is a premium replacement part engineered to meet exact OE specifications for form, fit, and function. Featuring corrosion-resistant nickel contacts and a machined exterior, it offers durability and style. Fully tested for mechanical and electrical performance and rated IP54 for environmental protection, this switch ensures reliable ignition control tailored for professional-grade automotive maintenance.

## Description

Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.

## Features

- Matches OE form, fit, and function
- Switch only - does not include steering lock
- Premium materials that include corrosion resistant contacts
- Manufactured to fit OE wiring harness and ignition cylinder
- 100% tested for both mechanical and electrical performance

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Operation Mode | Mechanical,Electrical |
| Contact Type | Normally Open |
| Connector Type | Molex |
| Brand | Beck/Arnley |
| Terminal | Screw |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches |
| Circuit Type | 1-way |
| Actuator Type | Ignition |
| Contact Material | Nickel |
| International Protection Rating | IP54 |
| Specification Met | Oe |
| Control Method | Touch |
| Connectivity Protocol | X-10 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00049797781327 |
| Manufacturer | Beck/Arnley |
| UPC | 049797781327 |
| Model | Ignition Switch |
| Item Weight | 8 ounces |
| Product Dimensions | 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches |
| Item model number | 201-1794 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 2011794 |

## Product Details

- **Operation Mode:** Mechanical,Electrical
- **Contact Type:** Normally Open
- **Connector Type:** Molex
- **Brand:** Beck/Arnley
- **Terminal:** Screw
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches
- **Circuit Type:** 1-way
- **Actuator Type:** Ignition
- **Contact Material:** Nickel
- **International Protection Rating:** IP54

## Images

![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61mabQzaAwS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Z7yLbAk4S.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61hA3Hhr5CS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61vjV7nSLAS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/610KzuWkfjS.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
  
    Fixed random stalling of 1998 Honda C-RV.
  

*by C***1 on Reviewed in the United States on April 7, 2018*

This fixed my random stalling and no starts on my 1998 Honda CRV.  There is a known problem with the ignition switch on first generation Honda CR-Vs.  I talked to a tech at Honda who tried to tell me my random stalling was not the ignition switch because I would be able to shake the keys in the ignition to get it to stall but that was not happening.  No matter how much I tried to shake the key I could not force it to stall.  He also said if it were the ignition switch it would always start back up right away which was not always the case. Sometimes it would and other times I'd have to wait minutes or let the engine try to turn over for several seconds.  He didn't know what he was talking about because I replaced the switch and now my car does not stall while driving.  It would normally stall about 15 minutes into my drive then stall 4-5 more times within the next several minutes of driving after restarts.  Eventually it would stop stalling and continue to drive until the next day after the car sat.  Again it would start stalling around 15 minutes into my drive.  Sometimes the engine would cut in and out.  It was just like someone quickly turned off the ignition then back on right away.This is an easy fix.  You only need to drop the lower dash panel on the driver side.  It's just two screws and some clips. The ignition switch screws into the back of the mechanical portion of the ignition switch that you put your key into with two Phillips head screws.  You'll. Need to cut a few zip ties to remove the old wire harness and unplug the two connectors.  You'll need a few new zip ties to hold the new wire harness in place.Now, if this does not fix your stalls here's what else it could be:1). Main relay (for fuel injectors and fuel pump behind the lower passenger side dash panel). Another easy fix. Remove the glove box held be two screws and the lower passenger side dash.  You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the bracket holding the main relay in.2) Ignition control module (ignitor).  This is inside the distributor next to the ignition coil.  Not too hard of a job. You need to remove the air filter assembly and take the distributor cap, rotor, and rotor cover off to get to it.  It's held on by a few screws with wires going to it.  There is a heat sink on it you will need to move to the new ignitor.  The hardest part is lining up the screw that holds the rotor on with the slot in the rotor cover to reach it with a screw driver.  You'll need to "bump" the motor by quick turns off the key until the rotor lands in the right position to reach the screw.3) Ignition coil.  This is not as likely unless your car doesn't start at all but you could still have a weak coil which could cause intermittent stalls.  It's next to the ignition so it's basically the same job as removing the ignitor.4) Spark plugs, rotor, and rotor cap.  If any of these or combination of are really bad you could stall and have a hard time starting the engine.  This is less likely unless your engine runs poorly too.How do I know this because I changed all these things because the Honds tech told me it couldn't be the ignition switch.  Don't listen to the Honda techs.  They don't want to take the time to look up your VIN to see if your ignition switch was covered under the recall or they are just plain ignorant of the recall problem that happened around 18 years ago.I never got to the fuel pump but that's the last thing I would have replaced had the ignition switch not fixed my problem.  There's always there remote chance of a bad electrical connection somewhere like a ground wire or bad fuse panel under the dash.  If you are here reading reviews I'd start by replacing the ignition switch first.  The electrical part with wire harness not the mechanical part with the key tumbler.So I took the old switch apart and what I found was all the contact points looked like they were covered in carbon.  They looked more dirty than burnt.  It looked and felt like soot.  I was able to clean them with a q-tip and fine sandpaper.  I probably could have reused the old switch but since I bought a new one on Amazon for only $28 I didn't bother of want to chance it.  If you do want to try cleaning and reusing the original switch be careful taking it apart so you don't break any of the clips that hold it together.  You will need to pry up on several clips simultaneously.  Not easy.  I've attached an image of what the dirty contacts looked like in the old ignition switch.  Hope this helps someone.  Took me over a week the hard way to figure out my problem.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
  
    1st Gen CR-V Complete Electrical Failure? This is your answer.  You're welcome.
  

*by A***R on Reviewed in the United States on April 1, 2016*

If your first gen CR-V is crapping out in the middle of the road, this is the part that you need. Contacts wear out, and the electrical system dies out intermittently at first, but  progressively worse. No Engine, No Lights, No Power Steering. No Good. No need to buy the entire lock cylinder unit my auto part guy tried to sell me at $200+.  Thank goodness for youTube and Amazon.  That being said, this was not an easy installation.  At least, not as easy as youTube made it look.  The location of the switch and clips required some contortions that I imagine would be taxing for many people.  Buy it anyway, and bring it to your mechanic to install.  Remember to check you VIN first to see if you're subject to the 2002 recall addressing this issue.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
  
    Electrical problem solver
  

*by L***O on Reviewed in the United States on January 4, 2020*

My parent’s 1998 Honda CR-V would spontaneously turn off while driving, and the problem progressively worsened until now. The car would turn over, but when one would let off the key, all power to the car would immediately turn off.Once I replaced this part, the car immediately turned on and stayed on. I left it running for a couple minutes to ensure it wouldn’t turn off again, which it didn’t. I then opened the housing where the contacts are and noticed this brown/gunk-like substance, most likely being the culprit.I took my time replacing this part, which was about 45min, and it wasn’t very difficult. I manage to to it with a screwdriver, crescent wrench, and some tape.

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*Product available on Desertcart Indonesia*
*Store origin: ID*
*Last updated: 2026-02-07*