Mortise and Tenon Jig

I have used a number of commercial jigs over the 40+ years that I have been woodworking (hobby). I would say the General mortise and tenon jig is very close to some of the most expensive jigs that I have ever used (e.g., Leigh) in terms of ease of use, accuracy, and overall function. So far, I have only used the jig to make 1/4 inch thick mortise and tenon joints for small cabinet doors. It was easy to learn and set up, and the joints are tight and accurate. My only complaint is that the mechanism for tightening the wood in place are hard on the fingers

This jig is made of solid aluminum and very sturdy. Instructions are very well written by someone who obviously speaks English as his primary language. It needs to be mounted on a board and clamped to your benchtop. The concept works well--tenons fit nicely into mortises. But it's tedious. I'm building a kennel for my dog and bought the jig to make the joints for the many (21) bars and corner joints. Boards are held in place by two clamps--one for mortises and one of tenons. Each clamp has two thumbscrews which must be tightened and released by turning the screws alternately several times. Not a big deal--unless you're making a lot of repetitive cuts. A simple lever clamp would improve the process immensely. When I went to the website to register my jig, I couldn't because the item has apparently been discontinued. Too bad, because it could be easily upgraded to make it more efficient and accurate.

Bought this for making cabinet face frames. I'm not sure why so many are leaving bad reviews for it: read the manual, take the time to set it up correctly and use a little sense and it’s a terrific tool. Honestly, I'm NOWHERE on the professional scale. This is my first attempt at making true joined face frames and I found it a breeze. Again: read the instructions, read them again because you were probably in a hurry the first time.... then take the time to set up and learn the tool and you should have no problems. The only complaints I have: 1. it did not come with a manual. I had to visit the manufacturers website and do some searching to find the manual, download, and print a copy. 2. There were two included accessories that were not mentioned anywhere in the manual, a stop clamp for repeatable cuts, and two small clips to act as 1/2" shims when mounting stock less than 2" wide. I figured them out, but it would’ve been handy to have them referenced.

The purpose of a woodworking jig is to allow the user to make repeatable cuts. The key is each cut is the same. Not nearly the same, but exactly the same. A jig that allows movement of the wood or depends on eyeballing the cut in some way is not a good jig because the cuts will not be the same. I struggled for hours with this jig and could not make exacting cuts with it because of two major design flaws: 1) not clamping the wood sufficiently - the wood moves unless the clamps are super tight, and 2) not having a way to hold the wood in the exact same location time after time. The General Mortise and Tenon Jig is made pretty well; however, there is one flaw in its holding power. The internal clamps that hold the wood in place do not do the job. Even with these clamps twisted down very tightly the wood will move, especially on the tenon parts. If one were to glue sandpaper to the internal clamps or make them larger it might work; however, after paying this much for a jig I do not want to tweak it this way and that to make it work well. It should work well out of the box. The second design flaw revolves around how the user aligns the wood before cutting. The jig instructions tell you to mark each piece at the center of the cut. Then the user puts the wood into the jig and aligns it by sight on center lines on the jig. There is no stop to adjust so the wood goes into the same spot each time. No matter how careful I was the parts were never aligned exactly the same. There was at least a 1/32 difference in the alignment of the wood. Usually it was more, sometimes much more. My problem is I am 65 years old and even with my glasses and a lot of light the marks on the jig and the marks on my wood ended up misaligned. The key here is a lack of a stop. In addition, the stop for the depth of the wood is basically made for 1/2, 3/4, and one inch stock. It is not made for metric sizes (such as plywood). If the stock is slightly smaller or larger than standard sizing it is impossible to get the stock centered on the depth dimension. Even after numerous tries at alignment the stock was at least 1/32 off. The system just does not work. If your stock is exactly 3/4, 1/2 etc I think one could aline the depth dimension eventually. If your stock is off "standard" imperial sizes stand by for problems. The internal clamps were rather small, and the knobs one has to use to twist the clamps closed are small. My hands have arthritis and turning the small knobs was hard. To top that off one must tighten these knobs excessively to have a chance at holding the wood in place. There are two knobs for each clamp, and the user must tighten both over and over until both are REALLY tight. Tightening one seems to cause the other to need more tightening. With a playing card or two I probably could have brought the depth adjustment onto the exact center of the wood, thus solving the depth problem. Then I could have cut the mortise parts long and just cut off the excess to get an exact fit on the joint. By cutting the parts a little oversized I could simply bring the frame (or whatever) into square after it was constructed. But why am I paying $100 to build a frame that isn't right from the get go? Do I have to build every joint this way? The entire point of a jig, especially an expensive one, is to place the cuts in the same spot on the stock every time. Thus, the wood must be held against a stop, the clamping mechanisms must hold the wood tightly without me putting in extra effort to sandpaper the front of the clamps etc, and the jig should be easy to use. One must remember that a jig may have to help the user cut 20 or more joints on a single project. Any additional work to square up the joint or work out "minor" problems becomes a major headache. I can make a shop jig for next to nothing that accomplishes that much. When I start paying $100 plus for a jig it has to eliminate those problems completely. This jig fails to do that. The jig does have mostly well machined parts. The router bit and the template guides are very good. The little wrench made to tighten the template guide onto the router base could not be used on my router, but that was a small concern. The centering process for the router bit was very good I thought. The instructions are good enough if you read them over once or twice before starting. Why the internal clamps were not better is beyond me. Why make the faces of the clamps smooth? Why not make the screws advancing the clamps larger and make the knobs either larger or of a different design so they could be tightened without a problem? Why make the alignment lines so thick? If they were much finer it might be easier to align the wood correctly. Why not design in a stop for the wood parts so every cut will be the same? It would be so easy to make this jig a lot better. And I don't think the ideas I have set forth would cost all that much. Nonetheless, the jig does not pass muster. One star. AD2

bon produit mais prise en main un peu fastidueuse

good works for me

Muito preciso

I use this jig for creating joints to make drawer rails in reproduction desks and cabinets. I had a small issue out of the box. There are small black Allen key slot locking bolts for the movable templates to size the mortise and tenon lengths. The RHS bolt for the tenon template came new with the Allen key slot stripped out so that I could not loosen the bolt leaving the template set at the widest point. Eventually after a spray with Reducteur H72 bolt loosener, I managed to get the bolt loose and out and I then replaced all 4 template locking bolts with the same thread size stainless steel pan head bolts. After that, the jig met my expectations.

all good