Kreg KMS8000 Precision Trak & Stops Kit - Track Guide for Miter Saw - Woodworking Saw Guide - Miter Saw Accessories - Woodworking Tools

I don't know that anyone gets this track system without knowing how nice they are. And they are. I have my bench set up to where it has six feet of track on each side of the saw - so about 82" each way after accounting for the saw base. I didn't really have a choice given some other things I wanted the saw to stay clear of but if you are able I'd have one side with at least 8' of track even if you have to offset the saw with less track on the other side. I bet we all tend to use a dominant side anyway (left side if you are right handed, etc). But back to the product itself. Very easy to install if you build the fence according to their recommendations. Mine is made of MDF and works great. Track mounts easily, tape goes on easily, and the stop measuring indicator is generously adjustable to easily dial in the exact measurement. I used swing stops on both sides of my saw and I like them. I don't see a use for the production stop yet that came with the kit. I figured I'd appreciate the convenience of moving the swing stops out of the way which I do a lot. My only slight disappointment is where the tracks butt up to each other. The stops don't glide over the joints very smoothly despite my best efforts to mount them aligned and snug to each other. But that's a small complaint. This system rocks.

Standard high-quality material and construction from Kreg. This system is a must for your chop saw table. I can now spend more time actually working on a project rather than the mundane task of measuring and marking pieces. The measurements from this system are dead-on and the cuts infinitely repeatable. This is one of the few tools that can enhance the skills of a novice woodworker to the point people may think you actually know what you're doing. Get one. I didn't build the box recommended in the instructions. I had an existing table where the saw is recessed to level-up with the actual table surface. I resurfaced both sections of the table with a sheet of melamine board and cut a strip to stand vertically for mounting the top track. I sandwiched this vertical strip with two sections of melamine board to form the actual table top front and back surfaces. It looks great. Hats-off to Kreg (...AGAIN) I also bought their router table stand and top system. That's another favorable review. I find my shop taking on a significant blue contrast to the sea of "black and yellow" tools.

Excellent quality, Kreg is a name you can trust

Easy to set up and use. Perfect for anyone who makes repetitive cuts. One question to Kreg. Why don’t you pre-drill the track? The groove makes it easy to drill but the new owners want to get to using it. Bought an additional 4’ section to make it 6’ right and left because my saw has 50 degrees left and 60 degree right and I wanted dual capability of 6’ both sides. Accurate as you make it. Tape is easy to set-up and directions are accurate and complete.

I built a miter station and this was a perfect fit. Installation was easy although it took some time to get my miter aligned. When fully installed, it cuts my cutting time in half. No more annoying measurements for multiple cuts of the same size. In fact, the accuracy is so precise, I no longer use a measuring tape for my cuts. Highly recommended.

I have a 22ft x 22ft garage that I have now claimed as my “shop”. While my wife grumbles in the distance about leaving our vehicles in the elements, I have taken it upon myself to buy all manner of second hand tools in an effort to become self employed as a maker of things. One of the most consistent issues I have come across in buying used tools is their lack of accuracy. A sweet deal on an old Delta table saw is all well and fine, but when the fence no longer stays parallel to the blade when you lock it down, well... let’s just say you can come across some figment issues. I have set up an old craftsman radial arm saw alongside a Harbor Freight (I can see your eyes rolling) Hercules compound sliding miter saw. They are about 4 feet apart. My diabolical and ingenious plan was to have both set to cut from the same fence. If I wanted to I could rip AND chop on the same pass. No one needs all ten fingers, right? Now to make this happen, the fence not only needs to be segmented on both sides of each tool, but it needs to be accurate and true. I called my buddy, Kreg, and asked if there was a simple solution to my needs and lo, the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System was born. You’re welcome. With this system, I was able to reinforce and true my 3/4 inch plywood fence with 2 foot sections of sweet blue aluminum, giving me the backbone of accuracy I have sought after with the added bonus of repeatable spot on cuts. Upon receiving my product, I did find that the small package of hardware (nuts,bolts,precision lenses) had somehow managed to escape the shipping box and last we heard is enjoying the good life in Aruba. I have mixed feeling about this. Nevertheless, I phoned ole Kreg and explained what had happened and he shipped me a new bag of hardware TWO days later. Color me impressed. Top marks for customer service. These days, I’m using lasers to cut thing and I watch the price of titanium closer than I ever thought possible, but it’s good to know that if I ever need to make something out of wood, that Kreg Precision Trak and Stop system is still in the shop, ready and waiting.

I used this to build a miter saw fence and stop system. It functions perfectly to produce quick repeatable cuts on the miter saw, so it is a good product. Having said that, after having it in my shop for a bit there are some inherent weaknesses to this design when compared to some alternatives (for a miter saw). Having a long fence that this system is installed on top of requires that your miter station counter and cabinets be designed around that fence. No big deal if you plan accordingly, but it required me to remove and modify some storage cabinets that had been on the counter I installed this on. A big part of that is the design of the solid production stop, which requires several inches of clearance on the back of fence to operate the star knob. Alternative designs where a t track is imbedded in a counter with a simple stop that rides along would use a lot less space and be cheaper to install. The main disadvantage of that design compared to this one is that the imbedded track will inevitably fill with debris and require vacuuming and that the lack of a fence will require you to be extra sure that you are registering your work piece against the smaller integral fence on your miter saw. The fence issue might not matter if you are building small items, but I installed this right before cutting a bunch of panels for large built in book cases and the fence was nice for that. I would saw if your goal is to build the “ultimate deluxe” miter station this fence system is probably what you want. If you want to build a good miter station that doesn’t require you to design a large cabinet system entirely around it I would consider the simple imbedded t track design.

I recently upgraded my miter saw station to the Bosch GCM12SD and thought I would upgrade my fence stop system at the same time. I purchased two of these kits and have them installed and am very happy with them. Couple of problems though. FIRST: Kreg needs to consider the supplier of the tape. I used one R/H and one L/H tape and on both of them I had considerable trouble removing the paper backing from the tape. It would leave little pieces on the back edge and I would have to take a box knife to get it started again. It did this constantly the whole 106" I was using on both tapes. Not a big deal but after wiping the trak down with alcohol and trying to keep it clean to get the best adherence it kept getting little pieces of paper on the trak. SECOND: If you are doing fine carpentry and expect to be cutting any 45° angles you will have trouble if you mount the trak to a 3/4" wood fence. If you do, the production stop (main one), will have a gap between the wood fence and stop of about 3/32". This will allow the tip of a 45° cut to wedge itself between the wood part of the fence and the stop of your second cut. Example- cutting picture frames or top casing for a door or window. I ended up milling some 4/4 stock down to 27/32" and it resulted in the production stop being snug against the wooden part of the fence when tightened down. After those minor considerations it works great!