5 Port Gigabit Desktop Switch

Good

best quality

God price, works perfectly.

自宅の回線を10Gbps対応にしたタイミングでルーターを交換し、有線機器を増やすためにこちらのスイッチングハブを導入しました。ルーターもTP-Link製なので、メーカーを揃えてみました。 まず、金属筐体なので安っぽさがなく、手に取るとしっかりした作りです。放熱性も良さそうで、ファンレスながら発熱も気になりません。 設定は一切不要で、LANケーブルを挿すだけですぐ使えるのも便利。PCやNAS、ゲーム機など複数の機器を接続していますが、通信が不安定になったり速度低下を感じたりすることもなく、非常に安定しています。 以前は他メーカーのネットワーク機器で接続不良や不具合に悩まされたことがありましたが、最近はルーターもハブもTP-Link製で揃えてからトラブルがほとんどなくなりました。 5ポートあれば一般家庭なら十分使いやすく、金属筐体で耐久性も期待できます。特にこだわりがなければ、ネットワーク機器はTP-Linkを選んでおけば安心感があると感じています。 「余計な設定をしたくない」「安定して使えるギガビットハブが欲しい」という方にはおすすめできる製品です。価格も手頃で、購入して正解でした。

Said it before; excellent products, great value for money, always work. Easy to set up.

Werkt goed, compleet, degelijk en goede prijs

Its a switch! Does what it needs to do. Pros: * Runs cold to the touch even when under decent load with multiple devices so its probably very energy efficient. * Seems to be very high performance! No latency or bandwidth changes vs direct CAT6a connection on gigabit ethernet. Tested with up to 3 devices under load. Latency was statistically unchanged and bandwidth/QoS was what you'd expect on paper so overhead is super low and on board protocols are implemented extremely well! Grain of salt though... I haven't formally benchmarked or even really used SOHO switches since the 10/100 days. Maybe all makes/models are similar nowadays, but 20 years ago using switches was only a tad better than a hub in terms collision prevention and simple QoS. * Physical build quality is top notch, with one caveat (see Cons) Cons: * Design of metal casing is probably perfect for mounting on the side of standard 1U or 2U racks, warehouse racks, or anything else with standardized screw hole placement and (ideally) the ability to come in from behind or at least see what you're doing. I needed to mount this to a wall in my home office where I couldn't just screw into a rack with standard mounts and slide the switch in place 5 seconds later. There may be a much better way, but the only solution I could come up with (in order to use the rubber feet as standoffs to allow airflow) was to take the housing apart and unscrew/remove the PCB to see what the correct distance between screws needed to be. In theory this would be the last step but unfortunately problem #2 (really the only roadblock in retrospect) was that when wall mounting, the shape of the mounting cutouts are such that you (or at least me?)don't give you enough "turning radius" to get the switch mounted without the offset from the screw head and the wall surface being stupidly long. The only solution where the standoff distance was both far enough to get the screw heads in there while ALSO getting it to mount securely without flapping around loose was to clip the opening a bit with sheet metal snips. This was a tad challenging but doable, mostly because of the cramped areas for maneuver. My recommended wall mount steps (unless someone has a better way) are: 1. Insert the screws in the mounting holes, and position in the narrower "top" area where they loosely stay in place when held in by hand. This will be the distance when mounted. 2. Gently press the switch and screws into the wall just enough to create 2 small dents so you know where to drill. 3. Drill. I didn't need a drywall screw due to wood paneling, but use drywall screws if bare drywall. If you think you don't need to just do it anyway. Its cheap, easy, and a good best practice to prevent yanks from plugged in devices, etc. 4. Screw the screws in 95% of the way. You may be able to just mount the switch ok. If not, you may need to do step 5... 5. (Optional). If necessary AND you know what you're doing, AND you don't care about warranties, open up the mounting cavity with metal snips, but only after you have unscrewed the device housing and have carefully removed all the (guts). Put them aside in an anti static bag to keep them safe. Start by clipping tiny slivers from the two mounting cavities on the bottom device housing piece. Adjust the screw depth until you can easily mount the housing without it feeling loose. You may need to test/adjust a few times, since the screw head will be blocked by sheet metal. This is the core design flaw, otherwise you could just (at worst) unscrew the top housing cover, remove the "guts", and just screw it in by hand, with the final step being to put everything back together (annoying but simple if you own magnetic screwdrivers). Again, only do this if no viable alternatives exist for you, as I'm sure it voids the warranty. Conclusion? Buy this excellent product, just be prepared for a "project" if this is going on a wall in a SOHO setting.